Dynamic young owner Francoise has created an eco-glamping resort, with romantic lakeside wooden chalets and areas for tents and vehicles (pitches from €20 for two nights). Old-fashioned but charming, this 16th-century auberge has 10 rustic-beamed rooms, as well as a small pool.įor a more outdoorsy experience, carry on to the north of the Dordogne, where Parenthèses Imaginaires (cabins sleeping 2, from €110 a night, minimum two nights) is a sprawling campsite with a lake and thick forest. Here, the venerable Hostellerie les Griffons (doubles from €95, breakfast €13) sits right on the river. Take the lovely 10km drive south-west along the Dronne to medieval Bourdeilles, crossing an ancient stone bridge to enter the village. Alternatively, sit out on the river bank at Comme à la Maison (13 quai Bertin, +33 9 8051 6833, no website), where owner Sarah Nicolas serves a €16 three-course lunch with seasonal, organic products. It was already a foodie paradise but now it boasts the Bistrot de la Halle, a minuscule diner where a glass of wine is the perfect accompaniment to freshly shucked oysters or a hamburger au foie gras.īrantôme caters for all budgets, from the Michelin-starred Moulin de l’Abbaye, to the cheap-and-cheerful Co’Thé-Café, where a homemade soup, quiche and salad costs €7.50. In Périgueux, head straight for the town’s historic covered market on Place du Coderc. Château Vari wines can be tasted for free at the bar, or there are tables in the garden of this friendly cafe-wine bar for indulging in generous €10 plates of charcuterie and local cheeses with a chilled bottle of organic €12 Bergerac blanc or rosé. In Monbazillac, the welcoming Maison Vari is owned by a local vigneron (wine maker). The best place for a romantic lunch is under the giant plane tree spreading over Place du Feu, where Une Cuillère pour Maman serves a selection of light, contemporary €10 plats du jour, which might be sea bream with sun-dried tomatoes or date-encrusted roast lamb, plus vegan and vegetarian options. The centre of Bergerac has plenty of relaxed wine bars and pubs such as Au Plus Que Parfait. A simple lunch at Bistrot de la Halle in Périgueux
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